Criccieth, a castle on the rock between two beaches
Criccieth is a small seaside town on Cardigan Bay with a castle built by Welsh princes standing on the headland between its two beaches. It is an easy half day from Caernarfon by car, bus or train.
Criccieth sits on the north shore of Cardigan Bay, about 17 miles south of Caernarfon. Its castle crowns the rock between two beaches, and the high street is mostly independent cafes, ice cream parlours and small shops. It is quieter than its neighbours, which is a large part of its appeal.
Getting there from Caernarfon
By car the drive is usually around half an hour. TrawsCymru T2 runs from Caernarfon through Criccieth on its way to Porthmadog, Dolgellau and Aberystwyth. Criccieth also has a station on the Cambrian Coast line, with trains roughly every two hours on weekdays towards Pwllheli one way and Porthmadog, Harlech and Machynlleth the other, and five each way on Sundays. Our getting here guide has more on travel from Caernarfon.
Things to do in Criccieth
Criccieth Castle
Begun by Llywelyn ap Iorwerth (Llywelyn the Great) and extended by his grandson Llywelyn ap Gruffudd, the castle was later strengthened by Edward I and burnt by Owain Glyndŵr in 1404. Run by Cadw, it is entered through a visitor centre with an exhibition, a video presentation and a shop selling the guidebook. Dogs on short leads can visit the ground-floor areas, and the main route up is steep with gravel and cobbles. Adult entry is around £8 and opening days vary by season, so check Cadw before you go. There is no castle car park, but there is parking on the main street and on the esplanade.
The beaches
Two beaches sit either side of the castle headland, good for a walk along the front whatever the tide. From the esplanade you get the classic view of the castle on its rock, and the Wales Coast Path runs through town if you want to stretch your legs further.
Lloyd George Museum, Llanystumdwy
A short drive west, about 1.6 miles from the castle, the museum is at David Lloyd George's childhood home, furnished as it was when he lived there between 1864 and 1880.
Sawna Criccieth
For something different, Sawna offers a wood-fired outdoor sauna by the sea.
Food and drink
Cadwaladers was founded in Criccieth in 1927 and is the town's best-known name for ice cream, and out of high season, from September to June, it hosts weekly live jazz. Dylan's occupies the art deco Morannedd building on the seafront, designed by Sir Clough Williams-Ellis, and specialises in seafood alongside pizza and burgers. Poachers is another well-rated restaurant in town, while Idris Bakery and Tir a Môr are handy for a coffee and something to take to the beach.
Make a day of it
Pair Criccieth with Porthmadog, a few miles east on the same T2 bus and train line, for the harbour and steam railways. For accommodation and more local detail, see Criccieth.org's guide to the castle and town.
Criccieth: questions answered
How do you get from Caernarfon to Criccieth without a car?
TrawsCymru T2 runs from Bangor through Caernarfon to Criccieth and on to Porthmadog, Dolgellau and Aberystwyth, so it is a single bus from Caernarfon. Criccieth is also on the Cambrian Coast railway, but there is no direct train from Caernarfon, so the bus is the simplest option. The road distance is about 17 miles.
Who built Criccieth Castle?
Criccieth was built by Welsh princes. Llywelyn ap Iorwerth (Llywelyn the Great) created the gatehouse with its D-shaped towers, and his grandson Llywelyn ap Gruffudd added the outer ward and further towers. Edward I later made improvements, and in 1404 Owain Glyndwr's forces burnt it while it was in English hands. It is now cared for by Cadw.
Is the Lloyd George Museum near Criccieth?
Yes. The Lloyd George Museum is in Llanystumdwy, about 1.6 miles from Criccieth Castle. It is set in David Lloyd George's childhood home, furnished as it was when he lived there between 1864 and 1880, and tells the story of the man who led Britain through the First World War. Check opening times before visiting.